
Mushroom comsommé with porcini, whole coriander seed, and saffron
Consommés are traditionally made from a meat base and contain a high concentration of gelatin. Consequently, they have to be served very hot or else they begin to solidify, forming a sort of aspic. This recipe, in which the methods for making a meat-based consommé are adapted to a mushroom base, contains no gelatin, and should be served at room (or patio) temperature to bring out the surprisingly sweet and delicate flavor of the clarified broth.
2 or so pounds of crimini mushrooms
1/2 cup dried porcini mushrooms
several fresh porcini mushrooms
several shallots
several fresh carrots
4 very fresh eggs
1 whole clove
4 all-spice berries
whole-strand saffron
sea salt
black pepper
white pepper
basil
good water
The dish begins with a very simple mirepoix of diced shallots and carrot. Using shallot instead of onion gives a special pungency to the final product. The flavor of celery, the third ingredient in a traditional mirepoix, is too bright for this soup, so I leave it out. Saute the mirepoix over a medium heat until the shallots soften and the notable sweet scent of cooking carrots begins to fill the room. (This, by the way, is my best advice to any cook. Fuck your kitchen timer. Learn what things smell like at different stages and in different methods of cooking.) You can use extra virgin olive oil, but I prefer clarified butter, which has a rounder, less assertive flavor. Do not use unclarified butter under any circumstances. Also, don't salt the mirepoix. If you add mushrooms to an already salty pan, the salt causes them to extrude their liquid too quickly, become mushy, and lose their flavors.
Now add your mushrooms. Crimini mushrooms are ideal--more delicately flavored than grown portobelli, but more assertive, meaty, and woody than dull white mushrooms. Cook them in the pot with the mirepoix until they have begun to brown. You'll begin to notice that the smell of cooking mushrooms becoming dominant. Once the mushrooms have reached this point, you can salt them. In this as with most dishes, a good medium or fine sea salt is ideal, and I prefer to salt slowly and mildly at each stage of cooking rather than adding some determined amount at the beginning or end of a recipe.
While you perform the preceding steps, heat water in a large pot to just under boiling. Now that your mushrooms are brown, add the water to the pot until the contents are completely submerged. Add your dried porcini to the water. Add one whole clove, four roughly crushed all-spice berries, and several generous twists of black pepper from a grinder set on a coarse grind. Bring the contents of the pot to a boil, then immediately reduce to a simmer. Depending on your quantities and the quality and freshness of your mushrooms, you should simmer from two to three hours, partly covered. (That's a lot less than a meat-based consommé.) Periodically taste a chunk of fresh mushroom from the broth. If it still tastes recognizeably of mushroom, it's not ready. When the mushrooms have given up almost all of their flavor, the broth is ready.
Strain the broth through a colander or seive to remove as much solid material as possible. Return the strained broth to the stovetop, but retain a cup or two of broth which should be quickly chilled in the fridge or freezer. Add a healthy pinch of saffron to the simmering broth and let it steep for at least 10 minutes. Separate four eggs, retaining the shells. You will not need the yolks for this recipe. Crush the egg shells and add them to the broth on the stove. Whisk the egg whites into the chilled cup of broth, and whisk that into the rest of the broth. Add the juice of one quarter of a lemon. Slowly increase the teperature on the stove. The protein from the egg whites and shells and the acid from the lemon juice will draw the rest of the impurities out of the broth and form what cookbooks call a "raft" and what honest cooks call a disgusting layer of horrific scum on top of the broth. You will want to let this bubble and boil for a few minutes, then reduce the temperature to stop the boiling and skim off the scum.
Now for the final straining. You will line a colander with either several layers of already-damp cheese cloth or several layers of damp paper towels. Remember, you must use several layers--single layers of cloth or paper towel will immediately saturate and cease to allow the passage of liquid, while too many layers will also strain ineffctively. You have to find a happy medium, usually four or five layers of cloth and three or four paper towels. The strained broth will be an extraordinary color: translucent, reddish, earthen. Allow it to cool slightly and taste it. It will have a deep, complex flavor despite the relative few ingredients, with a slight sweetness accented by the all-spice and clove, which also help bring out the savory character of the mushrooms. You can prepare this broth a day in advance.
For your final preparation, julienne a fresh carrot and set aside. If you have basil plants, pick the tiny, baby leaves for garnish--otherwise, cut several large leaves into a chiffonnade. Set aside. Slice your fresh porcini very thinly lengthwise (from top toward stem). You could also use any fine seasonal mushroom. Morels make a dramatic presentation. Heat extra virgin olive oil in a saute pan. Saute the mushrooms quickly, adding a tablespoon of whole coriander seeds almost as soon as they hit the oil. When just darkened and cooked through, transfer the mushrooms and coriander to a paper-towel-covered plate.
To present the dish, place a little pile of the julienned carrot in the bottom of a shallow bowl. Spoon several ladle-fuls of broth over these. Lay several slices of sauted mushroom with coriander seeds on top of that. Give it one or two twists of fine-ground white pepper. Top it with your basil garnish. Serve.