Foodie Friday, Winter Weather Edition

My dad and all of my uncles are great cooks. My brother and I and all of the first cousins are all great cooks. My grand mother can't cook for shit. She used to tell us, "Your grandfather and I were the perfect couple. He married the only Italian woman who can't cook, and I married the only Jew with no money." She and my grandfather owned a bar, and she used to work the lunch shift--sandwiches, at least, she could handle. But her most popular special, by far, was her Italian Wedding Soup, believed by the regulars to be an old family recipe, made from scratch and passed down through generations. It was, in fact, that old, super-salty Campbell's chicken broth, frozen meatballs, and romaine lettuce with Kraft grated parmesan cheese on top. On a cold day, it really wasn't so bad.

Italian wedding soup with spicy pork meatballs

There are as many real wedding soup recipes as there are Italians. Here's a preparation I often use to make a thick, hearty winter soup.

for the broth
2 fresh ham hocks, unsmoked
1 yellow onion, quartered
1 carrot, cut in large chinks
1 celery stalk, cut in large chunks
bay leaf
sea salt
black pepper
water

for the meatballs
1/2 lb fatty ground pork
bread crumbs, equal volume
1 egg
1/2 teaspoon cumin, finely ground
several allspice berries, finely ground
black pepper, finely ground
sea salt
several pinches ground cayenne

for the greens
small bunch of red kale, thinly sliced crosswise (including stems)
1 sweet onion, halved and sliced paper thin
3 cloves garlic, sliced paper thin
1/2 lemon
olive oil
sea salt

for finished soup
1 medium starchy potato, unpeeled, cubed
1/2 cup reserved bread crumbs
1/2 lemon
Parmigiano Reggiano

To make the broth, combine all the ingredients in a stock pot and bring to a boil. Skim off any scum rising to the top. Reduce heat and simmer for several hours.

To make the meatballs, combine all of the ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Mix very well by hand. Form the mixture into small meatballs, just under 1" in diameter, rolling between your palms. Set on wax paper and reserve.

When the broth is ready, strain through a fine sieve, transferring to a clean pot. Return to high heat and bring back to a boil. Add the meatballs, potato, and juice of 1/2 a lemon. Reduce heat so that it simmers briskly, covered.

While the meatballs cook, prepare the greens. Heat olive oil in a heavy sauté pan. Add garlic and onions, and cook until just tender. Add the greens, salting lightly. Toss with the oil and onions. Add the juice of half a lemon. Cook until tender.

Add the hot oil and greens to the soup. Stir together well. Add the breadcrumbs, stirring constantly for several minutes afterward. Simmer all together over low heat for at least 1 hour.

Serve garnished with freshly-grated cheese.

As a cautionary note, keep the salt light at each individual step. The final product should be salty, but not overwhelmingly so.