Foodie Friday - More Risotto

Here is a risotto recipe for a cool spring evening that looks forward to the bright flavors of summer but recalls the savory taste of winter dishes. For added depth, I crib from the Vietnamese, adding cinnamon and star anise to my broth--the Venetians long controlled the spice trade in Europe, so it seems mostly appropriate. For the greens, I use baby mustard green ("mustard tips") available at most Asian food markets, for their special pungency and aroma, but any similar leafy cabbage--Kale, collards, etc.--will do in a pinch. Instead of folding the cooked greens into the risotto, I serve this dish with the rice as a bed and the greens prominently on top, melting a bit of fruity Trugole, a cow's milk cheese from nearby Asiago, on top to finish,

Lemon Risotto with bitter greens

For the stock

1 yellow onion, quartered
5-6 chicken feet
a 3" cinnamon stick
several whole star anise pods
1 carrot, washed, unpeeled, roughly chopped
water
salt

For the risotto

2 cups arborio rice
3-4 medium shallots, finely diced
3-4 cloves garlic, smashed and finely diced
several cardamom pods, husk discarded, seeds ground
1 stalk lemon grass cut into several 3" segments
1 cup dry white wine
juice of 1 lemon
1 cup Pecorino Romano (or other aged, very salty cheese), grated
stock--see above
fine sea salt
cracked black pepper
extra virgin olive oil

For the greens

1 lb young mustard greens (or substite--see above), choppped crosswise into 1-2" sections, including stems
1 sweet onion, halved and cut into thin slivers
1 tablespoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon raw sugar
water
fine sea salt
extra virgin olive oil

For the garnish

Paper-thin slices of Trugole cheese (I use a vegetable peeler--works wonders)
zest of one lemon, blanched for 20 seconds, dunked in icy water, strained out with a fine sieve, and laid out to dry on a paper towel

To make the stock, combine all of the ingredients in a smallish (3 qt or so) stock pot, filling wholly with water. Bring to a boil. Skim any scum that rises to the top. Reduce to a simmer and simmer covered for 3 hours. Easily done in advance. Keeps in the fridge for 4-5 days. Just remember to reheat slowly over a low flame before using in the risotto.

To make the risotto, heat a generous pour of oil in the bottom of a heavy pot, such as a good dutch oven, over a medium high flame. Add the shallots and garlic, salting lightly. When softened, add the rice, cardamom, and lemon grass, scalding for a minute or two in the hot oil. Deglaze with the wine and lemon juice, then begin slowly adding the stock with a ladle, reducing the heat to medium low. When cooking risotto, concern yourself less with stirring constantly than with the level of the liquid, which should be maintained constantly so that all the other ingredients are wholly but just barely submerged. It is good to give it a brisk stir for thirty seconds or so following each addition of liquid, but no more stirring is called for.

Meanwhile, bring a pot of water to a brisk boil. Blanche the chopped greens in boiling water for no more than a minute, then immediately drain and transfer to a bath of ice water. This process softens them slightly, and also releases chemicals which mute the greenness of the chlorophyll, ensuring a more colorful presentation later on. Pat dry with paper towels

When the rice is soft and creamy to taste, add the cheese and stir in thoroughly. Salt and pepper to taste. It should still be a bit wet at this point. Remove from heat, cover, and let stand while you prepare the greens. This will allow the remnant liquid to be absorbed and the flavors to further mingle.

To cook the greens, heat olive oil in a heavy sauté pan. Add the onion and toss until it begins to soften. Add the fennel seed and toss for a moment. Begin adding the greens in batches, salting lightly with each handful, adding more when the previous batch has started to visibly wilt. Toss often, but not constantly. When all the greens are in the pot, add the sugar, stir thoroughly, and cook for a few more minutes until the greens appear to be evenly cooked.

To serve, spoon the risotto into a shallow bowl. Use a slotted spoon to transfer a serving of greens into a neat pile on top while still very hot. Lay several thin slivers of the Trugole cheese on top and let melt slightly. Garnish with lemon zest. Serve immediately.