Foodie Friday: Escabeche

Although probably Mediterranean in origin, escabeche is to my mind quintissentially South American. Like ceviche, it consists of fish in an acidic marinade, but because here both the fish and the marinade are cooked, escabeche is a better preparation for a cheaper, more oily, fishier fish than you might otherwise choose for a raw preparation. I particularly like whole mackerel. You might also try something like bluefish. As a general rule, I buy a whole mackerel or two and fillet them myself, reserving the head, bones, fins, and tail for making fish stock.

4 mackerel fillets, 4-6 oz. each.
1 red onion, halved and sliced paper thin
1 shallot, halved and sliced paper thin
1 cayenne pepper, chopped
zest of 1 lemon
1 bunch green onions, cut into 2" pieces
2 cups oyster mushrooms
1 cup mint or flat parsley, chiffonade
1 cup white wine
red wine vinegar
juice of 1 lemon
juice of 1 lime
flour
sea salt
black pepper, freshly ground
raw sugar
extra virgin olive oil

Heat oil in a good, heavy sauté pan until very hot. Season the fish fillets on both sides with salt and pepper. Dredge in flour. Pan-fry 1 or 2 at a time, depending on the size of your pan. Sear them skin side first, then flesh side, until golden and just firm. Remove and rest on paper towels to absorb excess oil.

Now add the red onion and shallot to the oil. Salt lightly. Cook until just beginning to soften. Add the cayenne, lemon zest, and a few pinches of sugar. Cook for another minute or two. Add the mushrooms and green onion. Sauté together until the mushrooms start to soften. Add the wine, vinegar, lemon and lime juice, and perhaps a bit more salt to taste. Simmer together until the liquid becomes slightly syrupy. Remove from heat.

Chop the fish into bite-sized chunks. Place in a shallow bowl. Mix the mint into the onion-mushroom mixture and pour over the fish. Cover and let stand at room temperature for at least 1 hour. Serve at room temperature with rice and warm corn tortillas.