Wednesday, November 03, 2010

Fakin'

Is the Republic still standing? Oh, whew. Thank Dog. Let's get on to the important stuff:

yeah, IOZ, ARE you contrarian enough to take on bacon, and its related fads?

-Montag
No. I mean, I, too, think that bacon-flavored sherbet or whatever is a little goofy, but in fact what the prevalence of bacon, especially in amateur cookology and bogus NY Times trend stories represents is the unacknowledged reintroduction of lard. That is to say, it is not actually the bacon that has gained new culinary currency, but rather the recently neglected rendered pork fat that has recovered some of its earlier popularity as a cooking fat and a shortening. The latter, by the way, is why you suddenly see bacon popping up in sweets and baked goods. It is not the meat, but the fat. (To be fair, American bacon, which is often smoked on applewood or other fruit wood chips, has a pleasantly sweet flavor, and of course, salt makes everything better.) Lard, by the way, is an absolutely amazing cooking fat. Personally, I like to slowly render the fat out of guanciale--jowl bacon, usually unsmoked--and use it to sauté brussels sprouts or potatoes.

21 comments:

BDR said...

Thank Dog? You're welcome, though I tried to have as little to do with it than I ever tried before.

NutellaonToast said...

pussy

Happy Jack said...

What's wrong with salt pork?

LA Confidential Pantload said...

I like the Mediterranean (I guess mostly Spanish) cooking fat mix of lard and olive oil. Lard is definitely teh awesome for baking.

Anonymous said...

Goose lard and crushed garlic on toast... proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.

Capt'n Obvious

Montag said...

"oh i was into lard long before bacon sold out and went mainstream." hipster. ;-)

come to think of it, i did see a chef on one of those cooking reality shows cooking beef in pork fat the other day, and the commentators practically came when they saw that.

"lard" is not the preferred nomenclature. porkfat, please.

Anonymous said...

I am a distinctly amateur cookologist, but I have been cooking with bacon grease, er, rendered pork fat, for years and it makes everything better -- it is just a matter of choosing the vector. The cap'n's suggestion is tasty, if not proof of God's love. And I eat the bacon.

drip

Dog's New Clothes said...

Oh oh. Could you share the lardy potato recipe for Foodie Friday?

Off topic, what are your favorite general-purpose cookbooks? I'm a bit of a Julia Childs guy, but I've yet to find other non-French cuisine books that aren't merely a big bunch of recipes.

Dog's New Clothes said...

*Child, of course

CaptBackslap said...

America's Test Kitchen cookbooks are generally very good at explaining why the recipes work, which makes them good for learning different techniques. My only big complaint is that their non-European recipes are handcuffed by New Englanders' traditional hatred of spiciness. Their taste test of hot sauces downgraded Tabasco for being too overwhelmingly hot, fer Chrissake.

Then there's Pamela Anderson's (not that one) "How to Cook Without a Book," which somehow manages to be austere and cutesy at the same time, but which still has good basic information.

IOZ said...

Julia Child's The Way to Cook is better than Mastering the Art and I do keep that around. Otherwise, just Larousse.

Dog's New Clothes said...

Thanks Cap'n.

I agree about American Test Kitchen. They do a nice job on procedure but the recipes can sometimes fall into Paula Deenesque Granmaw's Fruitcake kinda stuff. "We tried 14 different kinds of Jujubees to discover the perfect..."

With the change of the season, I feel like I should start making more soups. I could make a great cullen skink, if only I could find a place that sells smoked haddock.

Dog's New Clothes said...

IOZ,

I've heard other people say the same thing about The Way to Cook. I'll check it out.

I've got a bit of a soft spot for the Joy of Cooking, because while it has truly ghastly recipes, it does teach you how to skin a porcupine (although I think they excised that from the newest edition).

Rojo said...

I didn't realize there was a bacon fad to be commenting on. Is there?

While were on the topic however, my favorite cookbook is Julie Sahni's "Classic Indian Cooking." I would heartily recommend it to anyone.

CK said...

Holy Chicharonnes Bakeman.
As in Chicharonne flour to make bacon pancakes.
And the ever lovely Bacon Baklava with a bacon flavored Bourbon.

Anonymous said...

I don't know anything about pancakes, but there's minor amusement to be had watching the fuckwit commissars over at Balloon Juice rave about left deviationist wreckers. Very minor, though....
-- sglover

porcofagus said...

When I cook I sneak lots of bacon fat into greens and bean soup. I lie like a rug when my guests ask me what the secret is. I tell 'em it's bay leaf. They'd go home and take an emetic if they knew I'd fed 'em pig's foot or fatback.

Then there's goose fat. It doesn't have the giveaway hickory flavor than Amurrican bacon fat usually has. One roast goose at Christmas will keep you in delicious sneaky-Pete goose fat for the next year and then some. You can actually put a dab of it, warmed up, in a salad and nobody will notice -- apart from asking you for the recipe, of course. A schmeer of goose fat on the pancake griddle leads to a noticeable uptick in seconds.

ts said...

It's not bacon. It's Beggin' Strips.

Mr.Fundamental said...

for Rojo

scott douglas said...

Well. I cook a duck once a year, durin' the holy-days, just to get at that fucking fat in which to fry me taters once or twice in the deeep o' the winters. And, when I was seven or so, safely past molested-without-remembering age, I asked the grandmother-person why her greenbeens were so delicious. Bacon grease. (Guests ask, "oh, grammy's beans?" today). It is also uncontested that you make the best Anglo style pasty crust with lard - preferably leaf lard. And let's all be clear that lard has less saturated fat per gram than butter...well, fuck. I sound like a 'Marm...Jeffery, here I come, Man...

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